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Planting onion facts –

Hardiness: Hardy (can withstand heavy spring frosts). Bulb and green onions are biennials (two years required to complete life cycle) treated as annuals. Egyptian onions, multiplier onions, and shallots are hardy perennials (planting information below in next section). Planting: Plant onions in early spring as soon as you can cultivate your garden. Use sets, transplants, or seeds in spring for bulb onions and for green or bunching onions. Planting too early, with exposure to cold temperatures, can cause seed stalk development.

Sets: Plant onion sets in the spring for early onions, and in the fall for perennial or multiplier types of onions. Sets are planted with the pointed end up and covered with 1 inch of soil. Transplants: Either buy bunches of onion transplants or start your own by sowing seeds indoors about 8 weeks prior to planting. Tops that become too long can be snipped. This method gives the best results for most Maryland gardeners. Direct seed – sow seed ¼ inch to a ½ inch deep and cover lightly with fine soil. Keep the tops of your planted rows moist until you see plants emerge. Plant seeds thickly, then thin, using thinnings as green onions. Full sun requires at least 6 hours direct light/day; prefers 8 – 10 hours/day. Green onions will grow with 5 hours of sun per day.

Days to maturity: 85 – 120 (mature bulbs). Spacing: Standard 1″ – 8″ in-rows x 12″ – 24″ between row; wide row and block planting 4″ x 4″ equidistant spacing. Plant close, then thin, using thinnings as green onions. Regardless of how thickly they are sown or planted, onions should be thinned to a spacing of 2 inches apart in the row if you intend to harvest green onions, and 4 inches apart if you intend to harvest moderate size bulbs, and 8 inches apart for large bulbs. Fertilizer needs: High requirement for nutrients, either from soil organic matter or fertilizers. Apply fertilizer before planting, use starter solution for transplants and side-dress 1 to 2 weeks after bulb enlargement begins. Refer to Fertilizing Vegetables for details. Approximate yield: 20 to 25 lbs. per 10-foot row.

What month do you plant onions?

Should I Grow Onions from Seed or from Sets? – We prefer planting onion sets over starting them from seeds, simply because the sets establish quickly and are easier to plant.

• Onion sets are tiny onions that mature in about 14 weeks. They can withstand light freezes and have a higher success rate than direct-sown seeds or transplants. The onion sets look like small bulbs and are sold at gardening stores; once they mature, they develop into a full-size bulb. Choose onion sets with bulbs that are 3/4 of an inch in diameter; larger ones tend to produce stiff necks and go to seed.
• Of course, starting onions from seed is certainly doable, and may even be necessary in colder regions (Zone 5 and colder). Onions grown from seed require the soil to be at least 50°F to germinate, so these should be started indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting to the garden. If you’d prefer to try this method, check out our tips for,

Practice crop rotation with onions. Don’t plant them in the same location year after year, as this can encourage the spread of diseases that affect the crop. Select a location with full sun, where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants. The more energy they can get from the sunlight, the larger their bulbs can grow.

• In spring, plant onion sets outdoors as soon as the ground can be worked, usually in late March or April, when temperatures are no longer likely to dip below 28°F (-2°C).
• In spring, start onion seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting to the ground (once the soil is at least 50°F).
• A fall-planted crop of onions needs at least 4 to 6 weeks of warm temperatures to become established in the ground. They will remain dormant during the cool season, As the temperatures and soil warm again in early spring, the onions come back to life.

Photo credit: YuriyS/GettyImages

Can you plant onions in April?

Planting and Growing Spring Onions – Spring onions prefer abundant sun and well-prepared, healthy soil with good drainage. While onions will grow in nutrient poor soil, they won’t form good bulbs or taste as good. If possible, till in aged manure the fall before planting.

• Onions are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
• If needed, add a natural nitrogen source when planting, such as fish emulsion or aged compost.
• Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually March or April.
• Make sure overnight temperatures aren’t forecast to drop below 20°F.

Plant the bulbs about an inch deep and four inches apart. Plant no more than one inch deep, otherwise bulb formation can be restricted. Feed every few weeks with nitrogen rich fish emulsion to get good sized bulbs. Synthetic nitrogen fertilizer will grow larger bulbs at the expense of flavor.

1. Stop fertilizing when the onion starts pushing the soil away and the bulbing process begins.
2. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
3. Onions have short roots and need about an inch of water per week, including rain water to avoid stress from lack of moisture.

Mature bulb sizes will be smaller if they do not receive enough water. Raised beds and rows are good growing locations. It is important to keep onion rows weed-free until they become well established. Mulching helps protect them from weeds competing for water, as well as preventing moisture loss from sun and wind. Stuttgarter Onions

Can I plant onion bulbs now?

Growfully Protip – If you aren’t concerned about bulbing (AKA: you want to eat green onions), you can grow onions almost any time of year without concern for day length. Onions are separated into three categories: short-day onions, long-day onions, and intermediate-day onions (AKA: day-neutral onions).

• As you get closer to the equator, day lengths in the summer get shorter—requiring specific short-day onion varieties—like Texas Early White.
• Closer to the poles, the summer days are longer, and you can grow long-day onions— like Walla Walla or Yellow Sweet Spanish.
• In the middle, you can experiment with either or try out intermediate-day varieties—like Early Yellow Globe.

You can plant onions almost any time of year (especially if growing for green onions), but your timing will impact the size of onions you harvest and when they are harvested. Onions will get the signal to form bulbs when the day length in your area is getting the correct number of daylight hours for the variety.

• 10-12 daylight hours for short-day onions (for Southern latitudes)
• 12-14 daylight hours for intermediate-day varieties (in the middle)
• 14-16 daylight hours for long-day varieties (for Northern latitudes)

The size of a finished onion bulb is directly related to the size and number of green onion leaves on the top part of the plant (those become the layers of your bulb onion). So your goal is to get as many leaves growing on an onion plant before the signal to bulb starts in your area.

Does onion like full sun?

By Richard Jauron Horticulturist Iowa State University Extension Onions are one of the most popular vegetables in the home garden. They can be grown for green onions and dry bulbs. Onions are easy to grow. They perform best in well-drained, slightly acidic, fertile soils in full sun.

1. Heavy soils can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost, into the soil.
2. Onions require higher fertility levels than most other vegetables.
3. Apply 1 to 2 pounds of an all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, per 100 square feet and till into the soil prior to planting.
4. Four to five weeks after planting, sidedress with additional fertilizer.

Sprinkle 1 pound of an all-purpose garden fertilizer per 100 feet of row. Place the fertilizer in a narrow band about 2 to 3 inches from the base of the onion plants. An important aspect of onion development is photoperiod or day length. Photoperiod, along with temperature, control bulb formation.

The cool temperatures and short days of early spring promote leaf and root growth. Bulb formation begins when a certain day length is reached. Short-day onion varieties begin to form bulbs when they receive 11 or 12 hours of daylight, intermediate-day onions need 12 to 14 hours of daylight, and long-day varieties require 14 or more hours of daylight.

Long-day varieties are the best choice for gardeners in Iowa and the upper Midwest. Short-day varieties in Iowa will begin to bulb when the plants are small and will not produce large bulbs. Small bulbs can also be expected if long-day varieties are planted in late spring in Iowa.

• Onions may be grown from seeds, sets and plants.
• The planting method selected is based on cost, use, availability and planting ease.
• Seed s Growing onions from seeds may be the most difficult planting method.
• However, it is the least expensive.
• Germination may be sporadic, plant growth is slow, and weeds may be a problem.

Plant onion seeds as soon as the ground can be worked in spring (late March or early April in southern Iowa, mid-April in northern portions of the state). Plant seeds in rows 12 to 15 inches apart. Cover the seeds with 1/2 to 3/4 inch of soil. When the seedlings are 2 to 4 inches tall, thin the planting.

1. For large, dry onions, plants should be spaced 2 to 3 inches apart after thinning.
2. A full season of growth is needed for mature onions.
3. Sets Sets are small onion bulbs that were grown the previous year, harvested, stored through winter, then distributed to garden centers in early spring.
4. Specific onion varieties are usually not available.

They are sold simply as red, white or yellow onion sets. Since the variety is unknown, the flavor, use, and keeping quality of onions grown from sets varies considerably. Before planting sets, separate the bulbs into two size groups – those smaller than a nickel in diameter and those larger than a nickel.

The larger sets often bolt (produce a flower stalk) and don’t produce good-sized bulbs. Use the larger sets for green onions. The smaller sets can be allowed to develop into mature onions. Plant sets in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Sets should be planted at a depth of 1 to 1 1/2 inches in rows 12 to 15 inches apart.

For dry onions, plant the sets 2 to 3 inches apart. Sets grown for green onions can be planted closer together. Plants Plants are onion transplants grown in southern areas of the United States in winter, bundled into bunches of 50 to 100 plants, then shipped to garden centers in early spring.

1. Onion varieties are available when purchasing plants.
2. Select healthy green transplants and plant them 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep in rows 12 to 15 inches apart.
3. To produce large, dry onions, place the plants 2 to 3 inches apart.
4. Plant them as soon as the ground can be worked in spring.
5. Suggested onion varieties for home gardens in Iowa include Copra (main season, yellow-brown skin, excellent storage), Candy (yellow-brown skin, globe-shaped, short term storage), Red Burgermaster (bright red, globe-shaped, good storage), Sweet Sandwich (late season, yellow-brown skin, excellent storage), and Walla Walla Sweet (late season, yellow-brown skin, short-term storage).

Contacts : Richard Jauron, Horticulture, (515) 294-1871, [email protected] Jean McGuire, Extension Communications and Marketing, (515) 294-7033, [email protected]

Can you plant onions too early?

Planting onion facts –

Hardiness: Hardy (can withstand heavy spring frosts). Bulb and green onions are biennials (two years required to complete life cycle) treated as annuals. Egyptian onions, multiplier onions, and shallots are hardy perennials (planting information below in next section). Planting: Plant onions in early spring as soon as you can cultivate your garden. Use sets, transplants, or seeds in spring for bulb onions and for green or bunching onions. Planting too early, with exposure to cold temperatures, can cause seed stalk development.

Sets: Plant onion sets in the spring for early onions, and in the fall for perennial or multiplier types of onions. Sets are planted with the pointed end up and covered with 1 inch of soil. Transplants: Either buy bunches of onion transplants or start your own by sowing seeds indoors about 8 weeks prior to planting. Tops that become too long can be snipped. This method gives the best results for most Maryland gardeners. Direct seed – sow seed ¼ inch to a ½ inch deep and cover lightly with fine soil. Keep the tops of your planted rows moist until you see plants emerge. Plant seeds thickly, then thin, using thinnings as green onions. Full sun requires at least 6 hours direct light/day; prefers 8 – 10 hours/day. Green onions will grow with 5 hours of sun per day.

Days to maturity: 85 – 120 (mature bulbs). Spacing: Standard 1″ – 8″ in-rows x 12″ – 24″ between row; wide row and block planting 4″ x 4″ equidistant spacing. Plant close, then thin, using thinnings as green onions. Regardless of how thickly they are sown or planted, onions should be thinned to a spacing of 2 inches apart in the row if you intend to harvest green onions, and 4 inches apart if you intend to harvest moderate size bulbs, and 8 inches apart for large bulbs. Fertilizer needs: High requirement for nutrients, either from soil organic matter or fertilizers. Apply fertilizer before planting, use starter solution for transplants and side-dress 1 to 2 weeks after bulb enlargement begins. Refer to Fertilizing Vegetables for details. Approximate yield: 20 to 25 lbs. per 10-foot row.

Can I sow onions in March?

Plant – Onions are usually grown from sets (immature bulbs) – this is the easiest and fastest way to grow them, and will produce an earlier crop. Plants grown from sets are also less likely to be affected by disease. However, they are more prone to bolting (when a flower is produced instead of a bulb). To reduce the risk of bolting, choose heat-treated sets. Sets are readily available in early spring and late summer in garden centres and from online suppliers. They are usually planted in spring, from mid-March to mid-April. Some cultivars are suitable for planting in October to mid March – these are less sensitive to cold, which would otherwise cause bolting. Autumn planting is not suitable in heavy soils prone to waterlogging, as the crop is more likely to succumb to disease. Onions have a limited root system, so improving the soil with lots of organic matter before planting is invaluable – dig in a bucket of garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre/yard. This will help add nutrients, improve the soil structure and hold moisture in the soil. Avoid using fresh manure. Also add a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4, at a rate of one handful per square metre/yard. Plant the sets 2cm (¾in) deep in drills or gently push them into loose soil, so the tip is just showing at the surface. Space them 5–10cm (2–4in) apart, in rows 25–30cm (10–12in) apart. Firm the soil around them and water well. Birds can be a problem lifting newly planted sets, so cover with fleece until they’ve rooted in. Another planting option is to cover the ground with black weed-suppressing membrane, then plant the sets through slits. There is then no need for weeding, which both saves time and avoids any accidental damage to the bulbs when hoeing.

How many months does it take for onions to mature?

Planting onion seeds under lights – Related post: The best way to start seeds: Grow lights or sunny windowsill? Onions are cool-season crops that require 90 days or more to reach maturity. Because of this long growing season requirement and their preference for cooler weather, planting onion seeds directly into the garden in the spring makes it difficult for the bulbs to reach a good size before warm temperatures arrive.

This means the seeds have to be started many weeks in advance of moving the plants outside into the garden. To make matters worse, onion seedlings are also slow growing. So, if you want to grow onion seeds indoors under grow lights, you should start them 10 to 12 weeks before it’s time to plant them into the garden in early spring.

But, planting onion seeds indoors under grow lights is a bit more nuanced than growing other vegetables from seed. When growing the seeds of tomatoes, eggplants, and other veggies indoors under grow lights, the lights should be on for 16 to 18 hours per day.

• But, if you grow onion seeds indoors under grow lights and leave the lights on for that long, it will initiate an early bulb set and result in puny onions.
• That means that i f you want to start onion seeds indoors under grow lights, start very early and only leave the lights on for 10 to 12 hours per day.

To me, all of that seems like an awful lot of work, so I’m now planting onion seeds using a different method that’s far easier and a lot more fun. It’s called winter sowing.

How many onions will one onion grow?

Growing Onions — The Forest Flower Onions are most easily grown from bulbs, or “sets”. One bulb will produce one onion; it may be harvested early as a scallion or ‘green onion’, or allowed to mature into a full-sized cooking onion. Smaller bulbs (diameter less than dime-sized) will give you more onions if purchased by the pound or scoop, and are less likely to ‘bolt’ (go to seed) prematurely.

Bigger is not better! Varieties used for sets will mature into more pungent onions than those grown from “slips” or plants. Onions may be grown from seed, rather than sets or plants, but will take 3 to 4 months to mature. Green onions grown from sets will be ready to harvest in approximately 6 weeks. If you want large onions for cooking, plant the bulbs 10″-12″ apart and just under the surface.

Keep them watered, fertilized and gently cultivated to discourage weeds. Growing: Onions grow best in a well-drained, loamy soil of moderate fertility. They have shallow root systems, so must be weeded gently. If growing onions for scallions, plant them close together; they do not need much space between them.

For Scallions: The part of the onion below ground will be white (if white onion sets are used), and the part above the ground will be green. Both parts are edible but most people use only the white part. Either plant the bulbs 2″-3″ deep, or hill up the soil around the onions when they are 3″-4″ tall, to give your onions a larger white part. White sets are most often used for scallions, but any color will work. For Yellow Onions: They keep their quality in cool storage longer than red or white ones. Onions pulled young, for scallions, will be milder than those left to mature. If an onion plant sends up a flower stalk, pull it and use it promptly. It will deteriorate quickly. If the top of the onion plant is knocked over, the bulb will stop growing.

Storing: Onions for winter storage should be harvested gently and then allowed to dry in a warm, airy spot for a few days. Do not damage or remove the skin; it will protect the onion. FALL-PLANTED ONIONS FROM SETS Onions are most often grown from bulbs, or “sets”, in the spring but can usually make a successful crop when fall planted.

One bulb will produce one onion; sets may be planted 2″ apart if harvested as scallions or ‘green onions’, or 4″-6″ apart if allowed to mature into a full-sized cooking onion. You don’t need to plant in rows; a 1’x1′ square can grow 24 scallions! Varieties used for sets will mature into more pungent onions than those grown from “slips” or plants.

Green onions grown from sets will be ready to harvest in approximately 6 weeks. Onions will tolerate cold, even freezing, temperatures for a short period. A floating row cover will give them some protection when young. If you have not harvested all your onions by late autumn, put a heavy layer of mulch over them and you may be able to winter them over for spring harvest.

In Indiana, it’s best to plan to pull them out before winter since our winters are unpredictable in both temperature and snow covering (which insulates the ground). Onions grow best in a well-drained, loamy soil of moderate fertility. They have shallow root systems, so must be weeded gently. If the top of the onion plant is knocked over, the bulb will stop growing.

Plant the bulbs 1″-1.5″ below the soil surface; trim off any brown tips that show above ground when you plant, to discourage birds from pulling them up (they think the tips are worms!). Keep onions well watered during droughts. Fertilize before planting with a high nitrogen fertilizer such as blood meal or fish emulsion.

Do 1 onion bulbs multiply?

Varieties of onions: – Onions come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. The white, yellow, or red bulbs range in size from small pickling onions to large Spanish cultivars; they can be globe-, top-, or spindle-shaped. Most types can be pulled young as green onions, but there’s also a perennial bunching type called Allium fistulosum that’s practically disease- and insect-proof and produces superior scallions.

Each bulb of the multiplier or potato onion ( A. cepa Aggregatum group) multiplies into a bulb cluster. So with every harvest, you’ll have bulbs to replant for a continual supply. The Egyptian or top onion ( A. cepa Proliferum group) produces a bulb cluster at the end of a long stem with a second cluster frequently forming on top of the first.

It also has an underground bulb, which is often too pungent to eat. Other tasty plants include chives ( A. schoenoprasum ), garlic chives ( A. tuberosum ), and shallots ( A. cepa Aggregatum group). Learn more about growing garlic here. Good Housekeeping // Getty Images

Do onion bulbs spread?

Identification of Wild Onion Plants – Wild onion weeds grow in clumps and are typically found in flower beds or near difficult to mow areas, though they can also grow in the lawn. Wild onions can be identified by their thin, waxy, spear-like leaves. Wild onion is often confused with its close cousin,,

Do coffee grounds help onions grow?

1) Use Coffee Grounds as Fertilizer for onions – Coffee grounds contain essential nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, as well as other micronutrients. This makes it an excellent source of fertilizer. You can have the grounds sprinkled thinly into the soil or you can add them to your compost heap.

Coffee grounds are regarded as “green material” or nitrogen-rich organic material so it is essential you balance them with the correct proportion of “brown material” or “carbon-rich materials” such as dried leaves, newspaper, or woody prunings. Your compost heap contains tiny munchers and gnawers which will help in processing and mixing them effectively.

Using coffee grounds as fertilizer for your onion plants is absolutely safe and also beneficial for your plants. Read also: ? Step By Step Answer

What is the best fertilizer for onions?

ONION PLANTING Variety Selection The size of the onion bulb is dependent upon the number and size of the green leaves or tops at the time of bulb maturity. For each leaf there will be a ring of onion; the larger the leaf, the larger the ring will be. The onion will first form a top and then, depending on the onion variety and length of daylight, start to form the bulb.

Onions are characterized by day length; “long-day” onion varieties will quit forming tops and begin to form bulbs when the daylength reaches 14 to 16 hours while “short-day” onions will start making bulbs much earlier in the year when there are only 10 to 12 hours of daylight. A general rule of them is that “long-day” onions do better in northern states (north of 36th parallel) while “short-day” onions do better in states south of that line.

See the onion information resource page for more detailed variety descriptions and photos. Onions From Seed Mid to late October is the best time to plant seed of the super sweet, short-to-intermediate daylength onion types in Texas zones III – V (USDA Zones 8 and 9).

Seeds can be sown directly into the garden, covered with one-fourth inch of soil and should sprout within 7- 10 days. If planted thickly, plants can be pulled and utilized as green onions or scallions for salads or fresh eating in 8-10 weeks. However, most gardeners want to grow an onion bulb as large as a basketball.

To do this, the onion plants must be thinned by next February until they are at least 2-3 inches apart to insure adequate bulb expansion. The removed plants can be used for scallions or for transplanting into another area of the garden so that these too will have adequate space in which to enlarge into large bulbs.

Fertilization of onion plants is vital to success. Texas A&M research findings indicate that onion growth and yield can be greatly enhanced by banding phosphorus 2-3 inches below seed at planting time. This phosphorus acts as a starter solution which invigorates the growth of young seedlings. Banding phosphorus, such as super phosphate (0-20-0), 2-3 inches below the seed involves making a trench 3 inches deep, distributing one-half cup of super phosphate per 10 row feet, covering the phosphate with soil, sowing seed and covering lightly with one-half inch or less of soil.

Once established, onion plants should receive additional amounts of fertilizer (21-0-0 – Ammonium sulfate or Ammonium nitrate) as a side-dress application every month. Gardeners who tend to procrastinate should be warned that planting later than October could mean failure.

Failure in onion production comes in two forms – – complete annihilation of the young seedlings during a cold winter or an abundance of spring onion flowers which decrease bulb size, weight and storage ability. Onion plants which are small and rapidly growing when the cold temperatures of winter arrive will probably not survive.

Yet, if you plant earlier and the stem of onion plants are larger than a pencil when exposed to cold temperatures, the onion will initiate and produce a flower during the following spring. This flowering is termed bolting. Bolting requires low temperatures.

• Most rapid bolting is caused by temperatures of 40-45 degrees F. or below.
• Fall seeded crops are susceptible to bolting the following spring if warm fall temperatures, allowing excessive growth, are followed by low winter temperatures and slowed growth.
• Many gardeners believe that early removal of the onion flower stalk will cause onion bulb enlargement but this has not proven to be the case.

Flowering causes a decrease in bulb size as well as a central flower stalk which enhances decay during storage. This is exactly what will happen to those who are planting onion transplants or sets in October or November with the hope of large onions next spring.

• The onion bulbs which produce a flower stalk may be large but they will be light-weight (one-half the weight of a comparable size, non-flowered onion bulb) and prone to decay.
• Obviously, what you see is not always what you get! The best way to insure success is to either plant the onion seed from October 1 until November 15 or plant transplants from January through February in Texas Zones III – V (USDA Zones 8 and 9).

Care Of Transplant Instructions When you receive live plants, they should be planted as soon as possible. Should conditions exist that make you unable to plant these plants right away, remove the onion plants from the box and spread them out in a cool, dry area.

The roots and tops may begin to dry out but do not be alarmed, the onion is a member of the lily family and as such will live for approximately three weeks off the bulb. The first thing that the onion will do after planting will be to shoot new roots. Preparing the Soil Onions are best grown on raised beds at least four inches high and 20 inches wide.

Onion growth and yield can be greatly enhanced by banding a fertilizer rich in phosphorous (10-20-10) 2 to 3 inches below transplants at planting time. Make a trench in the top of the bed fours inches deep, distribute one-half cup of the fertilizer per 10 linear feet of row, cover the fertilizer with two inches of soil and plant the transplants.

Planting Set plants out approximately one inch deep with a four inch spacing. On the raised bed, set two rows on each bed, four inches in from the side of the row. Should you want to harvest some of the onions during the growing season as green onions, you may plant the plants as close as two inches apart.

Pull every other one, prior to them beginning to bulb, leaving some for larger onions. Transplants should be set out 4 to 6 weeks prior to the date of the last average spring freeze. Fertilization and Growing Tips Onions require a high source of nitrogen.

1. A nitrogen-based fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate) should be applied at the rate of one cup per twenty feet of row.
2. The first application should be about three weeks after planting and then continue with applications every 2 to 3 weeks.
3. Once the neck starts feeling soft do not apply any more fertilizer.

This should occur approximately 4 weeks prior to harvest. Always water immediately after feeding and maintain moisture during the growing season. The closer to harvest the more water the onion will require. For weed control a pre-emergent herbicide (DACTHAL) should be applied prior to planting.

This will provide weed control for approximately one month after planting. Other products such as GOAL and BUCTRIL, can assist in weed control during the growing season. Always follow label instructions. For organic gardeners a rich compost high in Nitrogen should be incorporated into the soil. Unfortunately, there is not any product available to assist in weed control so the only method will be cultivation.

While cultivating be careful not to damage the onion bulb. As the onion begins to bulb the soil around the bulb should be loose so the onion is free to expand. Do not move dirt on top of the onion since this will prevent the onion from forming its natural bulb.

Start early with cultivation practices. Disease and Insect Control The two major diseases that will affect onions are blight and purple blotch. Should the leaves turn pale-green, then yellow, blight has probably affected the plant. Purple blotch causes purple lesions on the leaves. Heavy dew and foggy weather favor their rapid spread, and when prolonged rainy spells occur in warm weather, these diseases can be very destructive.

The best cure is prevention: use only well-drained soil, run the rows in the same direction as prevailing wind and avoid windbreaks or other protection. Should conditions persist, a spray with a multipurpose fungicide such as daconil can be applied on a 7 to 10 day schedule.

The insect that causes the most damage is the onion thrip. They feed by rasping the surface of the leaves and sucking the liberated juices. They are light-brown in color and are approximately 1mm long. The most available insecticides are Malathion or Diazinon, or an insecticidal soap or biological insecticide may be used.

Do not apply any insecticide within seven days of harvest and always follow label instructions. Flowering – Abnormal For Onions; Normal For Garlic Most folks want to grow onion bulbs NOT onion flowers! What causes bulb onions to send up flower stalks? Flowering of onions can be caused by several things but usually the most prevalent is temperature fluctuation.

An onion is classed as a biennial which means it normally takes 2 years to go from seed to seed. Temperature is the controlling or triggering factor in this process. If an onion plant is exposed to alternating cold and warm temperatures resulting in the onion plant going dormant, resuming growth, going dormant and then resuming growth again, the onion bulbs prematurely flower or bolt.

The onion is deceived into believing it has completed two growth cycles or years of growth in its biennial life cycle so it finalizes the cycle by blooming. Flowering can be controlled by planting the right variety at the right time. Use only transplants that are pencil-sized or smaller in diameter when planting in early spring or always plant seed, NEVER transplants, in early fall in Texas Zones III – V (USDA Zones 8 and 9).

1. DON’T plant garlic in the spring! Bulb formation in garlic occurs in response to the lengthening days of spring, and bulbing and maturity are considerably hastened if temperatures are high.
2. In addition to these requirements, the dormant cloves (divisions of the large bulb) or young growing plants must be exposed to cold temperatures between 32 and 50 degrees F.

for one or two months in order to initiate bulbing. Plants that are never exposed to temperatures below 65 degrees F. may fail to form bulbs. With fall plantings, the cold treatment is accomplished quite naturally throughout the winter, but a spring planting spells disaster in Texas Zones III – V (USDA Zones 8 and 9) What To Do About Flowering? What can one do if flower stalks appear? Should the flower stalks be removed from the onion plants? Suit yourself but once the onion plant has bolted, or sent up a flower stalk, there is nothing you can do to eliminate this problem.

1. The onion bulbs will be edible but smaller.
2. Use these onions as soon as possible because the green flower stalk which emerges through the center of the bulb will make storage almost impossible.
3. Seedstalk formation (bolting) of garlic is not induced by exposure to fluctuating temperatures, as is the case with onions, which means that a wide range of fall planting dates is permissible for this crop.

Seedstalk formation is also not damaging to garlic since the cloves are arranged around the seedstalk and will be removed from the dried seedstalk. Conversely, the edible onion bulb is penetrated by the seedstalk which is hard when the bulb is harvested, but prematurely decays causing loss of the entire bulb in storage.

When the tops become yellowish and partly dry, garlic is ready for harvest. Harvesting And Storage Onions are fully mature when their tops have fallen over. After pulling from the ground allow the onion to dry, clip the roots and cut the tops back to one inch. The key to preserving onions and to prevent bruising is to keep them cool, dry and separated.

In the refrigerator, wrapped separately in foil, onions can be preserved for as long as a year. The best way to store onions is in a mesh bag or nylon stocking. Place an onion in the bag and tie a knot or put a plastic tie between the onions and continue until the stocking is full.

• Loop the stocking over a rafter or nail in a cool dry building and when an onion is desired, simply clip off the bottom onion with a pair of scissors or remove the plastic tie.
• Another suggestion is to spread the onions out on a screen which will allow adequate ventilation, but remember to keep them from touching each other.

As a general rule, the sweeter the onion, the higher the water content, and therefore the less shelf life. A more pungent onion will store longer so eat the sweet varieties first and save the more pungent onions for storage. Index

Can I still plant onions in May?

When to plant onion sets – Onion sets are usually available to buy for spring planting but a small number can also be planted in autumn in the UK. In spring, plant onion sets from mid-March to mid-April. There’s a wide variety to choose from, including popular ‘Red Baron’, ‘Sturon’ and ‘Hercules’.

Spring-planted onion sets are ready to harvest from late summer. Those suitable for autumn planting are more tolerant of cold conditions and can therefore be planted from October through to March. Common autumn-planting varieties include ‘Autumn Champion’ and ‘Electric’. An advantage of planting onion bulbs (sets) in autumn is that they take up space that would otherwise be left unplanted, and getting them in the ground before Christmas saves you a job in spring.

Autumn-planted onion sets tend to mature a few weeks sooner than spring-planted sets, typically from early summer. Onions typically need about 100 days of growing to produce decent sized bulbs. You can get away with planting them as late as mid-May to get 100 days of growing before light levels fall in autumn, but bear in mind they will be smaller than earlier planted bulbs when you come to harvest them.

Will onions survive a freeze?

Protect Your Onions from a Freeze | Onion Patch Onions can withstand light to heavy frosts and moderate freezes, but hard freezes can result in onion damage. Covering the plants with a protective covering or tarp will greatly reduce freeze damage, especially if temperatures are dropping below 20˚F.

1. We say that onion plants can survive temperatures as low as 20˚F, but what matters more is how long the temperatures are below freezing.
2. Longer periods of freezing temperatures cause more damage to the plants.
3. The effect of freezing temperatures varies considering how many carbohydrates are available to the plant when the plant begins the recovery process following a freeze.

If the plant uses up all of its carbohydrates that are stored in the bulb before it has the opportunity to regenerate more carbohydrates, the plant will die.

How long do onions take to grow?

How Long Until Harvest? – Onions take about 3 to 4 months from planting to harvest. If you want spring onions, otherwise known as green onions, harvest them about 3 to 4 weeks after you’ve planted your sets. Otherwise, be patient, water, fertilize, and weed. Before you know it, nice and plump onions will peek the crowns of their heads out of the soil to show you their progress. Monitor them carefully, noticing when the long green tops begin to flop over and lay down, changing color from green to brown, indicating that it is harvest time. The beautiful thing about onions is that once you plant them in the ground and they establish themselves, which can take about two weeks or so, you can pick fresh ones from that point on. Otherwise, wait until you see large crowns popping out of the ground and you notice that the green onion tops are flopping over and beginning to brown. That is a sign that they are ready to be picked.

Do onions come back every year?

What are perennial onions? – Regular onions, also called common onions ( Allium cepa), are biennial plants that produce leaves the first year followed by flowers and seeds the second year. Gardeners treat common onions as annual vegetables however, and pull the bulbs at the end of the first growing season.

Perennial onions, on the other hand, are plants that self-multiply and can be left in the garden for many years. There are numerous types of perennial onions you can grow offering a variety of edible parts and flavors. In my zone 5B garden we enjoy perennial onions almost year-round, especially when they’re planted in a cold frame or greenhouse.

These reliable vegetables are perfect for vegetable gardens, food forests, homesteads, urban gardens, as well as ornamental beds. You can even grow perennial onions like chives and potato onions in containers.