Traveling across the country in a small van

A vehicle’s title establishes who owns the vehicle. Each time the owner changes, a new title must be issued. Currently, the Maryland MVA prints a two-part, paper title. The first part, the Maryland Certificate of Title, is mailed to the owner. The second part, the Security Interest Filing (SIF), is printed only when a lien has been filed against the title; it is mailed to the lien holder.

Having a title for your vehicle does not permit you to drive it on public roads; you must also register it. The two transactions are usually handled together. Please check the infoMVA registration section for further information. CO-SIGNER – If an owner of a vehicle is under 18, a parent, spouse, employer, or other responsible adult must sign as co-signer. The purpose of the co-signer’s signature in this section is to certify to the accuracy of the information on the application for title. (They will not be shown on the title).

What is a salvage title in Maryland?

A vehicle with a certificate of salvage, issued by Maryland or any other *state, must undergo a salvaged vehicle inspection if the vehicle has been repaired and the owner wants to title the vehicle in Maryland. If the vehicle does not have a certificate of salvage, contact the MVA for assistance obtaining one.

*New York salvage title (form 907a) must be inspected in New York only. A certified Maryland State Police (MSP) Salvage Inspector, must perform the salvage inspection. The inspection is intended to ensure that the vehicle and/or its parts have not been stolen or its serial numbers illegally removed. Note : If the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate has been removed from the dashboard or is damaged, it must be inspected by a member of the Auto Theft unit.

The vehicle must be scheduled for a salvage inspection at the Glen Burnie inspection site only on any Tuesday (excluding State holidays) between 8:30 – 12:30. If further assistance is needed to schedule an appointment, please contact [email protected],

Does Maryland issue salvage titles?

My vehicle was declared salvage by an insurance company after an accident, but I have decided to keep the vehicle. Does this affect my title? – Insurance companies must report ALL “owner retention” of those vehicles with greater than 75% damages that are repairable or vehicles that have sustained flood damage regardless of the age of the vehicle.

Note: You will receive a letter from the MVA advising you that your title needs to be submitted to the MVA for branding. In order to continue to operate the vehicle, you must submit a Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate within 90 days of the date of the notice or the registration will be suspended.

This means that you must take the vehicle to an authorized Maryland Inspection Station for an inspection and obtain a Certificate of Inspection to submit to the MVA. Failure to comply will result in the suspension of the vehicle’s registration. Once the Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate is submitted, the MVA will issue a corrected title that reflects the new inspection date and the notation “Rebuilt Salvage.” A corrected title fee is charged for titles corrected as a result of an “owner retention”.

How do I get rid of a salvage title in Maryland?

To get a rebuilt title in Maryland, the Maryland State Police (MSP) must perform a salvaged vehicle inspection. After passing the inspection, all you need to do is apply for a rebuilt title and registration in person at any Maryland DMV (MVP) branch office.

Once a car is totaled, you can usually kiss it goodbye. Most insurance companies will write the vehicle off and pass it to a salvage yard, where the car is stripped of usable parts and then crushed. A rebuilt title can give a car new life, though. If you find or already possess a totaled car that you want to be road-worthy again in Maryland, you will need to apply for a rebuilt title.

Jerry, the car insurance comparison and broker super app is here to take you through the process. We’ll go over what a rebuilt title is, when you need one, and what the Old Line State requires to get one. RECOMMENDED

What does a rebuilt title mean in Maryland?

What Is a Rebuilt Title? – Cars that previously had salvage titles receive rebuilt titles after they are repaired to roadworthy condition. Although the official title status is “rebuilt,” it does not necessarily mean that a mechanic rebuilt the car from the chassis up.

1. For a vehicle to go from salvage to rebuilt, it needs to be inspected by the state and deemed fully functional and safe to drive.
2. A rebuilt title has considerable advantages over a salvage title.
3. When you buy a used car with a rebuilt title, it’s ready to register, insure, and drive right away without much of a headache.

That typically isn’t the case with a salvage title. It’s crucial to do an in-person inspection of the car before buying a vehicle, especially one with a rebuilt title.

Does a salvage title really matter?

Insuring a salvage-title car – While it’s not impossible to insure a salvage-title vehicle, it may be more difficult to do so — especially if you require full coverage with collision and comprehensive. Most insurance companies will write a liability policy for a salvage-title car but are often hesitant to include collision and comprehensive.

For one, assigning an accurate value to a salvage-title car is challenging. According to Kelley Blue Book (KBB), a salvage-title car is typically worth 20% to 40% less than one with a clean title. If you make a claim on a salvage car, you should be prepared for a much lower “total loss” payout than you might expect from a car that’s “clean.” The second reason is safety.

Salvage cars often have lurking problems that may or may not be addressed in the process of restoring them to health. Not all rebuilders are honest, and cutting corners to boost profitability is fairly common. Either or both of these realities can result in a vehicle with structural and alignment issues that make it dangerous to drive.

Shop around. Roughly 20% to 30% of insurers will not insure a salvage-title vehicle, so you will need to shop around. Contact your current insurer to see if they offer coverage. If they don’t, start shopping. Be prepared for an inspection. Some insurers will require an inspection and appraisal before they will insure a salvage-title car. If you disagree with the appraisal amount, then you should try to negotiate a higher amount or continue shopping for a new policy. Even if an inspection isn’t required to insure the vehicle, you may want to get one anyway. Before buying, have a trusted mechanic thoroughly inspect the vehicle. Get a repair estimate. If possible, get the original repair estimate from the rebuilder or the insurance company that totaled the car. This can give your insurance company peace of mind that all damage has been repaired. Prepare to pay more. Pricing will also vary by insurer, but you shouldn’t expect a break on your premiums for a salvage car because you got a deal on the purchase price. If anything, the opposite will be true: Some insurance companies will add a surcharge of up to 20% to the policy when insuring a salvage-title vehicle. Consider less-than-full coverage. Consider getting a liability-only policy, which financially protects you if you injure another person or their property. It will not cover the cost to repair your own vehicle. Liability only insurance is much easier (and less expensive) to get with a salvage-title car.

Why don’t you want a car with a salvage title?

Cons of Buying a Salvage-title car –

• The car could have extensive damage or not be safe. It can be hard to judge how much damage you’re actually dealing with just by looking at a car—which means you could end up needing to spend much more on repairs than you initially expected. There have also been reports of lawsuits over car repair shops cutting corners when it comes to vehicle safety.
• A risk of fraud. Unfortunately, sellers don’t always tell the truth about the damage that led to a salvage title. If you purchase the car and it needs major repairs, you’ll have little recourse.
• It’s hard to qualify for insurance or financing. Insurance companies typically offer limited coverage for salvage-title cars—and sometimes don’t provide coverage at all, It can also be difficult to find a bank or credit union willing to offer a loan for a car with a salvage title.

What is a branded title in Maryland?

Title brands indicate whether a used vehicle has sustained damage or might be potentially unsafe to drive. If a vehicle’s title has been ‘branded,’ it is an official designation made by a state agency and should appear on the vehicle’s title paperwork. Neither individuals nor private companies can brand titles.

What is the difference between salvage and total loss?

The main difference – The main difference between a salvage title vehicle and a total loss is that a salvage vehicle can be repaired and become roadworthy again. While salvage vehicles have typically sustained a substantial amount of damage and are deemed a total loss by an insurance company, they aren’t completely destroyed.

1. Often, salvaged vehicles can become roadworthy again by repairing them, getting them inspected, and legally changing their title from salvage to rebuilt.
2. True total loss vehicles don’t have this option and will never be safe to drive regardless of whether they undergo repairs or not.
3. If you’re interested in purchasing a salvage title vehicle, you can find an extensive stock of competitively priced models at,

Our substantial inventory includes salvage and repaired cars, trucks, SUVs, motorcycles, and commercial vehicles for sale. While our selection of salvage cars is based in Miami, Florida, we also export our vehicles to all major US-based ports so that they can be shipped worldwide.

What does salvage greater than 75% mean?

What is the process for obtaining a certificate of salvage? – A request for the Certificate of Salvage can be made in-person to the Glen Burnie Salvage Unit Counter 104, or by mail or delivery service to the MVA Salvage Unit, Submit an Application for a Salvage Certificate for each case below – Be sure to include the type of business (insurance Company), indicate the vehicle’s damage, status and the signature of the company’s representative. The application form and other documents required vary by case, as explained below.

The cost to repair the vehicle for highway operation is greater than 75% of the fair market value of the vehicle prior to sustaining the damage for which the claim was paid and the vehicle is repairable. The vehicle is not re-buildable, will be used for parts only, and is not to be re-titled. The vehicle has been stolen. The vehicle has sustained flood damage. The vehicle has been acquired by an insurance company as a result of a claim settlement and the cost to repair the vehicle is 75% or less of the fair market value of the vehicle prior to sustaining the damage for which the claim was paid.

Case 2 – When an insurance company wants to sell a damaged vehicle at a public auction, the following documents are required:

Proof of ownership – Properly assign the vehicle’s certificate of title to the insurance company. Lien release – A release is required only when the certificate of title indicates that a lien exists.

The resulting certificate of salvage will be marked with a statement indicating the extent of the vehicle’s damage. Case 3 – When an insurance company receives a report of a stolen vehicle by one of its customers, the following documents are required: Note:

No salvage certificate will be printed until the vehicle is recovered. MVA will record in its database the information related to the stolen vehicle salvage transaction. When the vehicle is recovered, the insurance company must request another certificate of salvage, which will be marked with a statement indicating the extent of the vehicle’s damage. If a vehicle is recovered with 75% or less damage, the salvage certificate will be branded “XSALVAGE”.

Case 4 – When an individual or company buys an abandoned vehicle at a police auction, the following documents are required:

Auctioneer’s Sales Receipt for Police Sales of Abandoned Vehicles Only – Provided to the buyer by the police. This form is the ownership document for the vehicle. It must be complete and include the vehicle’s odometer reading and the signatures of a representative of the police department, a representative of the governmental sub-division, and the auctioneer. The form must also be notarized. Proof of identity – Required only when the application is presented in person. The customer must present a driver’s license or other proof of identity acceptable to the MVA. Application of Salvage Certificate, form VR-028.

The Certificate of Salvage will be marked with a message indicating that the vehicle has been “abandoned.” Note: If the vehicle purchased at an auction is marked “for parts only,” the MVA can never issue either a certificate of salvage or a certificate of title for the vehicle.

Certificate of Authority, (form CS-078) – This form is provided to an automotive dismantler and recycler or scrap processor by a police department that originally took custody of an abandoned vehicle. It serves as the ownership document for the vehicle since no certificate of title is available.

Note: The resulting certificate of salvage will be branded “abandoned.” Case 6 – When an individual elects to keep their damaged vehicle, the insurance company must notify the MVA unless the damage to the vehicle is 75% or less of the fair market value (see note below). The following documents are required:

Proof of Ownership – The vehicle’s certificate of title must be submitted. Lien Release – A lien release is required only when the certificate of title indicates that a lien exists. Maryland Safety Inspection – The customer has to have the vehicle inspected within 90 days of receiving a notice from MVA or the registration will be suspended.

When the damage is greater than 75% of the vehicle’s fair market value and repairable or has sustained flood damage, the new Maryland title will be branded “rebuilt salvage” or “flood damage” respectively. The vehicle must pass a Maryland State Safety Inspection within 90 days of receiving notice from the MVA or the registration will be suspended.

The cosmetic brand will no longer be used on salvage certificates issued by the MVA, except in the case of corrected or duplicate salvage certificates which were previously branded with cosmetic damage. Titles produced from a salvage certificate with the cosmetic brand will not be branded.

Does salvage title affect resale value?

How much does a rebuilt title devalue a car? – Auto and insurance industry sources report that the decrease in value of a vehicle that has a rebuilt or salvage title is typically between 20% to 40%, depending on the type of vehicle, its age, the amount of damage it had and the local automotive market.

How much should I subtract for a salvage title?

How can I get the value of my car on a past date? Occasionally we get a request for the value of a particular vehicle at a particular date in history. This request may be for litigation, estate planning, taxes, etc. The fee for a Valuation Certified Report is $35 per value.

On the home page or under “Car Values” from the top navigation, select “My Car’s Value”. Tell us the year, make, model and mileage of the car you own (2015> Honda> Civic>30000 miles). Verify the ZIP code. Choose your car’s category (sedan vs wagon) and style (DX, EX, LX). Note: Many vehicles only come in one category, but most vehicles are sold in more that one style, which some sites call “trim”. Whatever you call it, these are pre-packaged levels of equipment – and they definitely affect the price or value of a car. Add any additional equipment or options (packages, alloy wheels, moon roof, premium sound, etc.) Choose what you’re most likely to do – Trade In to a Dealer or Sell to a Private Party. Tell us the car’s condition (Excellent, Very Good, Good, or Fair) or, if you’re not sure, take the Condition Quiz. Most cars we see are in “Good” condition. View the Blue Book Value based on your ZIP code and your car’s age, mileage, equipment, and condition.

What are Trade-in Values? Trade-In Value is what you can expect to receive for your current car when trading it in at a dealer, assuming you’ve chosen the accurate condition. (Most people overestimate the condition of their car. As a reference, most of the cars we see are in “Good” Condition.) The Trade-in Value presupposes that you’re buying another vehicle from the same dealership.

1. The Trade-in Value will be less than the Private Party Value because the reselling dealer has to pay to recondition the car, perform safety inspections and incur other costs of doing business.
2. What is the Trade-in Range? The Trade-in Range is an estimate of what you can reasonably expect to receive for a vehicle with the miles and options you specify, when trading in the car at a dealer.

It generally presumes that you will buy another car from the same dealer. What are Private Party Values? Private Party Value is what a buyer can expect to pay when buying a used car from a private party. It may also represent the value you might expect to receive when selling your own used car to another private party.

The Private Party Value assumes the vehicle is sold “As Is” and carries no warranty (other than the continuing factory warranty, if any). The final sale price may vary depending on the vehicle’s actual condition and local market conditions. This value may also be used to derive the vehicle’s value for insurance and vehicle donation purposes.

What is the Kelley Blue Book® Instant Cash Offer? The Kelley Blue Book® Instant Cash Offer is a real offer for a specific amount to purchase a consumer’s car or apply the amount toward another car. The Offer is valid for 7 days (not counting Sundays) and can be immediately redeemed during business hours at any Participating Dealer, pending inspection.

1. It is based on specific elements of the consumer’s car, like installed options, specific condition (such as dents and mechanical issues) and local market demand.
2. How is an Instant Cash Offer different from Trade-in Range? The Kelley Blue Book® Instant Cash Offer is: ● A fixed offer applied toward your next car purchase or used to sell your current car to a Participating Dealer (pending inspection) ● Valid for 7 days (not counting Sundays) ● Based on specific details related to the condition and features of your car, like installed options, dents, mechanical issues, and local market demand The Kelley Blue Book® Trade-In Value is: ● An estimated trade-in value used toward the purchase of another car only ● Updated weekly ● Applied to similar cars of the same year, make, model, style and general condition ● The general value Kelley Blue Book estimates consumers can expect to negotiate this week based on the style, condition, mileage and options of the vehicle when they trade it in to a dealer, however every dealer is different and values are not guaranteed Is it better to trade in my car or sell it myself? This is a question of personal preference.

When you trade a car in, the dealer must then absorb the cost of making the vehicle ready for sale, reconditioning, advertising, sales commissions, arranging financing and insurance and standing behind the vehicle for any mechanical or safety problems.

• You may get more for your car if you sell it yourself, but you need to consider the value of your time, the aggravation of performing at least some of the above tasks to get the vehicle into a suitable resale condition and the liability of making appointments and giving a test drive.
• See more about Selling vs.

Trading in our Advice Section, How do I determine what condition my current car is in? We know you’re not an expert, but you also know your car best. Just be as honest with yourself as possible. Most people tend to overestimate the condition of their car.

• To help out, we post the percentage of vehicles we value that match each condition.
• For example, if only 3% of the vehicles in the market are considered “Excellent” condition, chances are that your car isn’t one of them.
• If you aren’t sure, take our condition quiz.
• Can I sell my car on your site? Yes.
• As private party, you’ve got the same opportunity as a dealership: to reach millions of serious car shoppers with a listing on KBB.com and Autotrader.

To create, purchase and post your car’s classified ad, get started here. My car has a salvage title. How does that affect the value? A salvaged, reconstructed or otherwise “clouded” title has a permanent negative effect on the value of a vehicle. The industry rule of thumb is to deduct 20% to 40% of the Blue Book® Value, but salvage title vehicles really should be privately appraised on a case-by-case basis in order to determine their market value.

What about the value of equipment on my car that you don’t have listed? There are some options (e.g., rims, alarm systems, heated seats, trip computers) that are not addressed on our site. Most of these are dealer-installed or aftermarket. These items don’t have a consistent or reportable added value in the used marketplace.

That is not to say that such options are worthless as they may make your vehicle more marketable against similar models; however we do not address options when there is not a consistent value to report. Why don’t you value aftermarket equipment? This can be confusing for a lot of people: “Why do you show a luggage rack as optional, but not the ski rack I installed myself?” We only value items which are either factory-installed or “factory quality.” There is a tremendous variation in something like rims, so it would be impossible to list – and report values for – all the different options.

Space does not allow us to identify the vast variety of aftermarket items. I purchased my car outside the US, but it is now registered here. What’s the value of it? The values you see on KBB.com only apply to vehicles sold in the United States, but we do maintain sites in Canada and Brazil to supply the values for those markets.

Cars imported through sources other than factory authorized distributors are considered gray market vehicles and may have substantially lower used car values because the conversion to U.S. specification is performed by aftermarket companies, not the factory.

• Elley Blue Book does not address gray market vehicles; therefore yours may have to be privately appraised.
• I totaled my car.
• How will the insurance company determine what it was worth? Policies vary quite a bit, but generally, insurance adjusters try to determine the value for a vehicle that has been totaled as somewhere between Wholesale and Retail.

They may also research comparable vehicles that have sold in your area to help determine a fair price. You could average the Trade-In Value with the Typical Listing Price of your vehicle and use the resulting value as a reference point for determining the vehicle’s value.

Please note that insurance companies do not have any obligation to use Kelley Blue Book pricing to determine replacement values. Insurance companies use Kelley Blue Book as a reference but will set their own policies as to which values they use. My car is more than 21 years old. How do I find its value? Kelley Blue Book provides values for used vehicles up to 21 years old.

Transactions for older vehicles are too rare, therefore we don’t have enough data to analyze and are unable to report values for them. If you have questions, please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-258-2005, option 2. I bought a new car a few months ago and I would like to check its used value.

When will it be listed? Kelley Blue Book reports vehicle values by analyzing actual transactions in the market. We do not believe in using arbitrary formulas to predict prices because our promise is to report dependable values, not set prices. It can be difficult to establish used values on newer vehicles if we have not seen enough transactions in the required amount of different markets to establish dependable values on these vehicles.

What is the difference between the Trade-In Value I see on your site and the Blue Book® Lending Value? The Trade-In Value on our site supposes that the vehicle is in fair, good, very good or excellent condition and is taken in by the dealer AS IS. The Blue Book® Lending Value, which is intended for use by the wholesale industry, factors in the Trade-In Value of the vehicle plus the cost associated with reconditioning the vehicle to the manufacturer’s specifications and performing all required safety checks to make it ready for sale.

What is a Class M vehicle in Maryland?

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Driver License Class	You May Drive:	You May Tow:	Exceptions
A	Any single combination of vehicles	Any trailer	Motorcycles Endorsements may be required
B	Motor vehicles 26,001 or more pounds (GVW)	Trailers 10,000 pounds or less	Combination of Class F (tractor) and Class G (trailer) Motorcycles Endorsements may be required
C	Motor vehicles under 26,001 pounds (GVW)	Trailers 10,000 pounds or less	Motorcycles Endorsements required

Commercial Driver License Endorsements

Endorsement Code	Authorizes:
T	Double/Triple Trailer
TPXS	All CDL Endorsements
P	Passenger Transport
S	School Bus Authorized
N	Tank Vehicle
H	Hazardous Materials
X	N and H Combined

Non-Commercial Driver License Class Codes

Driver License Class	You May Drive:	You May Tow:	Exceptions
A	Any non-commercial vehicle	Any non-commercial trailer	Commercial Motor Vehicles Motorcycles
B	Any single or combination of non-commercial motor vehicles	Any non-commercial trailer	Commercial Motor Vehicles Motorcycles Combination of Class F (tractor) and Class G (trailer)
C	Any non-commercial combination of motor vehicles with a GVW less than 26,001 pounds	Any non-commercial	Commercial Motor Vehicles Motorcycles
M	Motorcycles	Motorcycle trailer	Commercial Motor Vehicles

Restriction Codes

Code	Explanation
A	May not be used to purchase a firearm
B	Corrective Lenses
C	Special brakes, hand controls or other (see restriction card)
D	Prosthetic Aid
E	Automatic Transmission or No Manual Transmission equipped CMV (Commercial Motor Vehicle)
F	Outside Mirror
G	Limited to Daylight Only
H	Limited (see restriction card)
I	Limited (see restriction card)
J	Other (see restriction card)
K	CDL Intrastate Only
L	No Air brake Equipped CMV (Commercial Motor Vehicles without airbrakes)
M	No Class A passenger vehicle
N	No Class A and B passenger vehicle
0	No Tractor-Trailer CMV (Commercial Motor Vehicle)
P	No Passengers in CMV (Commercial Motor Vehicle) bus
R	Warning – ID Theft Victim – Verfiy ID
T	Limit Term Temporary
U	Not Acceptable for Federal Purposes
V	Medical Variance
W	Veteran
X	No Cargo in CMV (Commercial Motor Vehicle) tank vehicle
Z	Organ Donor, Hearing/Speech Impaired or No Full air brake equipped CMV (Commercial Motor Vehicle without full airbrakes)

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What is the difference between a rebuilt title and a salvage title?

The difference between rebuilt vs. salvage title vehicles is that rebuilt vehicles were once salvaged but have been refurbished. They’re then taken to the DMV where they pass a rigorous inspection that ensures they’re in good condition. When they pass the test, they’re redesignated as rebuilt title vehicles.

What is the downside of a rebuilt title?

A Rebuilt Title Car’s Warranty Is Typically Voided Once a vehicle is totaled or titled as a salvage vehicle, that typically voids the automaker’s original warranty. That means you’re on the hook for major repairs that could result from unseen damage, even if the car is almost new.

Is Rebuilt title the same as clean?

What you need to know about rebuilt titles – Some states have rebuilt titles, indicating the car used to have a salvage title but has since been rebuilt. For example, in Wisconsin a car with salvage title can become rebuilt salvage after passing a state salvage inspection.

• It’s issued a rebuilt title instead of a clean title to prevent you from paying more for the car than what it’s worth.
• Once a car is issued a rebuilt title, it won’t ever be issued a clean title again.
• It’ll always carry the mark on its title.
• Even if a car has been rebuilt by qualified professional mechanics, there’s always a chance that something hidden went unfixed.

This can especially be an issue with rebuilt cars — that’s why they’re cheaper.

What does rebuilt title mean on a car?

When a salvage vehicle has been repaired and certified for use on the road once again, the title can be changed to a ‘rebuilt’ status. The term ‘branded title’ refers to a car title that is no longer a clean title. It could be deemed a salvage, rebuilt, junk, or flood vehicle.

Does a Maryland title have to be notarized?

If You are Buying the Vehicle: – Whether the vehicle is being purchased from within Maryland or out-of-state, the procedure is the same to transfer ownership to you. Visit an MVA full service office with the following completed documents. You may need a ride to the MVA, because you must register the vehicle and obtain your license plates before you can drive the vehicle on the road.

The buyer must sign his or her name on the “Maryland Certificate of Title” under the “Assignment of Ownership” section. If there is a co-buyer, he or she must also sign. The buyer’s name and address must be recorded in the “Assignment of Ownership” area on the title to complete the sale. Without the name, the title is considered “open” and will not be recognized by the MVA for registration. ASSIGNMENT OF OWNERSHIP FORM The buyer is responsible for completing the “Application for Title and Registration” section. Any co-buyers must also sign. The name(s) of the buyer(s) on both the “Assignment of Ownership” section and the “Application for Title and Registration” section must match. If you have purchased a vehicle with an out-of-state title, you must complete an MVA Application for Maryland Title (form # VR-005). If the vehicle is jointly owned, the co-buyer must also sign the application.

A Release from the Institution that has Financed the Vehicle

If the seller is transferring ownership of a vehicle titled in Maryland and has financed the vehicle, a “Notice of Security Interest Filing” will be needed. If the vehicle is titled out-of-state the title will be needed showing the lien has been satisfied. If the “Notice of Security Interest Filing” is not available, please request from the seller a letter from the financial institution. The letter must be on the financial institution’s letterhead, signed by the financial institution’s authorized agent stating that they hold no security interest. The letter should also include the date of the loan’s creation, the amount, the date of its release, the name and address of the debtor, and a full vehicle description (year, make and vehicle identification number). To title the vehicle in Maryland the buyer must have either the “Notice of Security Interest Filing” or the letter from the financial institution.

An MVA “Bill of Sale”

A notarized MVA Bill of Sale is needed if the sale price is less than the vehicle’s book value and the vehicle is 7 years old or newer. Please call the MVA’s Customer Service Center at 1-410-768-7000 to verify the vehicle’s book value. If a notarized “Bill of Sale” is not presented and the purchase price of the vehicle is within $500 of the retail value as shown in the National Publication of Used Car Values, MVA will accept the purchase price as completed on the title. An excise tax will be charged on the basis of 6% of the vehicle’s book value or 6% of the purchase price on the notarized “Bill of Sale” for vehicles 7 years old or newer. For older vehicles, the tax is calculated on the purchase price. Maryland’s minimum excise tax charged is $38.40, based on a minimum value of $640.

Vehicle Inspection

Used vehicles must be safety inspected before they can be registered by the MVA. The vehicle must be inspected by a licensed Maryland inspection station. An automobile dealer, service station or specialized automobile service center can all be licensed as Maryland inspection stations. A “Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate” is valid for 90 days. Make sure the vehicle identification number, engraved on a metal plate and visible through the windshield on the driver’s side, matches the number entered on the “Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate”, the “Certificate of Title” and any other vehicle ownership documents. Altered inspection certificates will not be approved. A Temporary Registration​ is available for buyers who must have an inspection or repairs completed to register the vehicle. The temporary registration may be purchased at the MVA when titling the vehicle and is valid for 30 days from the issuance date. The temporary registration allows the buyer to transport the vehicle for a Maryland safety inspection and any necessary repairs. The registration fee will not be collected until the “Maryland Safety Inspection Certificate” is submitted and a one or two year registration plate is requested. However, the buyer will need to pay the title fees, taxes, and any lien filing fee, if applicable, and the temporary registration fee when purchasing the temporary plates. If a temporary registration is needed, an MVA Temporary Inspection Waiver (form # VR-129) must be completed.

License Plates and Insurance

Insurance information must be submitted to register the vehicle. The full name of the insurance company, policy or binder number, and the agent’s name (if there is an agent) must be submitted. The buyer(s) signature’s self-certifies that all of the insurance information is true and correct. The insurance coverage must be provided by a company licensed to insure vehicles in Maryland. APPLICATION FOR TITLE AND REGISTRATION The buyer must complete the “Application for Title and Registration” section on the “Maryland Certificate of Title” with the insurance information. If the buyer has purchased an out-of-state vehicle, an Application for Maryland Title (form # VR-005) will need to be completed to apply for the title. The “Application for Title” will also require the vehicle’s insurance information. If the Maryland seller does not have the “Maryland Certificate of Title” for the vehicle they must apply for a duplicate Maryland title by completing the MVA Application for Duplicate Certificate of Title (form # VR-018) and then sign the duplicate title over to the buyer.

How long does it take to get a salvage inspection in NY?

On the day of the examination – Arrive on time. If you arrive more than 30 minutes after the scheduled time of the examination, the DMV will not examine your vehicle. You must pay another examination fee of $150 and schedule another examination. The examination takes about 30 minutes.

• drive the vehicle into the examination facility
• open all the doors, the hood, and the deck lid of the vehicle
• describe the repair work and the parts that were replaced
• provide the original receipts for the replacement parts (provide any additional photocopies if they are available; the receipts are returned to you)

Any vehicle identification number that appears damaged or altered can cause a delay with the examination. The DMV can require you to return for another examination on another date.